A: Typically around 1,000 sqft. It is always suggested there be a heatloss calculation done on the building to be heated to accurately calculate the amount of btu/h (British Thermal Units per hour) needed to overcome the building heatloss on the coldest day of the year. The EMB-W-9 will output 30,717 btu/h.

A: There is a 20 year element warranty, 20 year vessel warranty and a 2 year warranty on all other boiler components from the date of installation.

A: The first thing to do is always check the troubleshooting lights located on the front of your boiler. All electric boilers sold at the Electric Heat Store will have lights telling you the status of your boiler. There are lights representing thermostat heat call, load management (off-peak) and also the safety high limits. If any of these lights are not reflecting what you think should be happening, investigate why this light is on / off.

Here are some tips to get you started:

• If your Heat Call light is not on, check the fuse on the board to make sure it is not blown. If the fuse is good, next step would be to check your thermostat. Make sure your thermostat is in the heat mode and actively calling for heat. If it is, make sure it is wired correctly (stat R to boiler R and stat W to boiler W). Your thermostat may or may not need a common.
• If your Utility Off-Peak light is off, this means the LMC (load management control) circuit is open. This is often used with off-peak programs offered by power companies. It is also used to disable the boiler in certain critical situations such as low water cutoff.
• If your 160°F high limit light is on, you may have inadequate flow (GPM). Use this formula to calculate the GPM of the system.
• If your 205°F light is on, this means your manual reset (located on the top of the boiler vessel) is open. This will only open if boiler is on without pump running (pump failure or power outage).

A: No. There are a few different variables to look at here. One would be your application. Is your application a high mass or low mass. For example, a high mass system is typically a concrete floor, a low mass system is typically baseboard heat or radiators. If it is a low mass application, you may want to look at proper flow and proper boiler sizing as a possible issue. There should be a rather quick temp rise in this application. If this is a high mass system, it must be realized that the boiler has a lot of mass to heat, therefore it can take several days to heat the mass to the point of satisfying your thermostat. Another variable would be whether the temperature selection dial is in the right position. Most of the boilers offered at the Electric Heat Store have what’s called WarmFlo technology. This is a smart controller that controls the heating elements in your electric boiler based on a set (by you) delivery temperature. If this dial is not set correctly you may not be satisfied with the output temperature of the boiler. Adjust this dial accordingly.

A: In most scenarios, your application will determine desired boiler out put temp. Typically the more mass there is to be heated the lower desired temp and vise versa.

A: All electric boilers offered at the Electric Heat Store include a pump switch, which has no voltage. This is a normally open switch which will close with every thermostat call for heat. Therefore you must power your pump with a separate 120V source and use the switch provided on the boiler to engage and disengage the pump.

A: The green led on the circuit board represents stage one of the electric boiler. When the WarmFlo controller senses it has not reached its desired temperature, it will require stage one to be on full, you will see the green light on solid. When the WarmFlo board detects that it has surpassed it desired temperature and does not need stage one, the light will be off. If the WarmFlo controller has decided it has reached its desired output temperature, it will actually modulate (pulse) stage one to maintain an exact output temp.

A: This is what is called a solid state relay. This solid state relay is designed to open and close millions of times vs. a mechanical relay which has a much shorter life span. The solid state relay is dedicated to stage one; this is what allows the electric boiler to modulate. When the green light is on, this means the relay is closed and the heating element is on, when the green light is off, the relay is open and the heating element is off.

A: The boost heaters offered by the Electric Heat Store “turn on” or heat when 24 volts is applied to the yellow and black wires. An external transformer supplying 24 volts through a contact such as an airflow switch, danger end switch, etc. is required to apply 24VAC power when you want your boost heater to turn on.

A: There is a small DIP switch located on the circuit board marked Ø through 7. Unless otherwise specified during the time of order, this unit is equipped with a default “D” chip. This is a broad range temperature with settings at 12° steps. If you would like a more precise temperature setting, the “plug-in chip” can be changed for a temperature range selection. Order a specific temperature range chip code as shown below.

Switch Position	T	A	B	C	E	H	D	WFMU
0	110	85	96	20	60	88	40	30
1	120	95	100	25	65	90	52	38
2	130	105	104	30	70	92	64	46
3	140	115	108	35	75	94	76	54
4	150	125	112	40	80	96	88	62
5	160	135	116	45	85	98	100	80
6	170	145	120	50	90	100	112	88
7	180	150	124	55	95	102	124	96

A: It is located on the WarmFlo control board. There is a 19 pin micro chip with a white sticker that says “Comfort Module”; this sticker has your specific chip code.

A: 20 year element warranty and a 2 year warranty on all other electric components.

A: Located on the front of the EZ-Mate are lights representing high-limit, power on, electric mode, HP/AC call, t-stat call, and gas call. If any of these lights are not reflecting what you think should be happening, see the steps below to troubleshoot the issue.

Hi-limit light on:

• Check your air filter. A dirty air filter can significantly reduce the amount of airflow going through the system.
• Inadequate airflow, to calculate your CFM (cubic feet per minute) use the formula below. By measuring the temperature rise across the existing furnace (or this electric unit), the CFM can be approximated. The accuracy of this formula will depend upon the estimated or determined Btu output (actual heat energy across the furnace). To convert kW to Btuh, multiply kW by 1000 to obtain watts, and then multiply watts by 3.413 to obtain Btuh output.
  
  

  CFM	=	Btuh (output)
  		Temperature Rise x 1.08

Power light is not on:

• If you do not have your power on light illuminated, this means the fuse located on the board possibly has opened up. The fuse on your plenum heater is a thermal fuse which will automatically reset (may take 10 minutes). It may also indicate the board is not receiving proper 24VAC power (typically from the stand-by furnace fan center).

Power light is flashing on and off:

• Verify temperature sensors are connected to the control board.
• Ensure sensor wires are securely attached to the terminal block and that they are connected to the correct positions on the terminal block.
• Bad sensor fault codes.
• OT sensor – approximately 1/10 second blip every ½ second
• ST sensor – two, 1/10 second blips every ½ second
• Both bad – ½ second on and ½ second off, alternating

EL mode light is not on:

• If you do not have your EL mode light on, this means you are in stand-by mode. You may be in stand-by mode for a couple of reasons.
• The front override switch must be in the normal mode for electric heat to be enabled. If it is in stand-by, the heat call is passed on to the stand-by heat source.
• You may have timed out on an internal safety switch over timer (SOT-S).
• You may be below ODT cutoff causing stand-by.
• Your load management circuit (LMC) may be open.

T-stat light is not on:

• If your T-stat call light is not on, ensure your thermostat is sending a heat call (W).

T-stat light is on but the plenum heater is not heating:

• Mechanical hi-limit, front panel top LED on
• Inoperative element relays
• Inside AC to DC power supply board bad
• Circuit breakers off
• Burn 240 inside wires
• Building power panel fusing or breakers off

Gas call light on:

• If you have your gas call light on. This means you are in stand-by mode. See EL mode light (above) for possible reasons you’re in stand-by mode.

A: Located on the front of the Electro-Mate are lights representing power on, electric mode, and heat on. If any of these lights are not reflecting what you think should be happening, see the steps below to troubleshoot the issue.

Power light is not on:

• If you do not have your power on light illuminated, this means the fuse located on the board possibly has opened up. The fuse on your plenum heater is an AGC-2 (2A). It may also indicate the board is not receiving proper 24VAC power (typically from the stand-by furnace fan center).

EL mode light is not on:

• If you do not have your EL mode light on, this means you are in stand-by mode. You may be in stand-by mode for a couple of reasons.
• The front override switch must be in the normal mode for electric heat to be enabled. If it is in stand-by, the heat call is passed on to the stand-by heat source.
• You may have timed out on an internal safety switch over timer (SOT-S).
• You may be below ODT cutoff causing stand-by.
• Your load management circuit (LMC) may be open.

Heat on light is not on:

• If your T-stat call light is not on, ensure your thermostat is sending a heat call (W).

Heat on light is on but the plenum heater is not heating:

• Mechanical hi-limit, (see hi-limit tripped below)
• Inoperative element relays
• Inside AC to DC power supply board bad
• Circuit breakers off
• Burn 240 inside wires
• Building power panel fusing or breakers off
• Override switch is up.

Hi-limit tripped:

• Check your air filter. A dirty air filter can significantly reduce the amount of airflow going through the system.
• Inadequate airflow, to calculate your CFM (cubic feet per minute) use the formula below. By measuring the temperature rise across the existing furnace (or this electric unit), the CFM can be approximated. The accuracy of this formula will depend upon the estimated or determined Btu output (actual heat energy across the furnace). To convert kW to Btuh, multiply kW by 1000 to obtain watts, and then multiply watts by 3.413 to obtain Btuh output.
  
  

  CFM	=	Btuh (output)
  		Temperature Rise x 1.08

  
  

A: You must have the override switch (located on the front of the plenum heater) in the NORMAL position for all electric functions including cooling mode.

A: Yes. This unit can be mounted for upflow, horizontal or down flow.

A: The heat pump coil must be installed on return side of the strip heater. If it is installed on the supply side of the strip heater, temperature modulation for the strip heater will not work properly.

A: Because A/C coils are not active during the heating mode, you can install the coil on either the supply side or the return side of the electric furnace.

A: The heating elements for the electric furnace have a 5 year warranty.

A: It is included with the purchase of the electric furnace.

A: With the electric furnace, your system components will determine which thermostat you use. If you have a heat pump, you must use a heat pump stat. If you’re using it with a standard air conditioner, you must use a standard heat/cool thermostat.

A: An ECM motor is an electronically commutated motor that uses between 30% and 70% less energy than a typical PSC (permanent split capacitor) motor. Another feature is that you set the CFM parameters (three speed G, Y1 and Y2) and it will automatically adjust itself to maintain this selected CFM as static pressures in your system change (i.e. dirty filter). Using this motor in conjunction with WarmFlo to ramp the CFM (Y1 and Y2) based on outdoor or supply temperature sensing, creates one of the most efficient electric furnace combinations in the industry.

A: In a radiant infloor heat system, it is always desirable to control the heat source (electric boiler) based on floor temp rather than air temp. This gives you much more control over your radiant infloor heating system.

A: The red light indicates the floor temperature has satisfied the thermostat set temperature and currently does not require any heat. A green light indicates that the floor temperature is colder than the set temperature of the thermostat and requires heat. If the LED is blinking (3 seconds red then ¼ second green, then repeating), this would indicate that the sensor is defective and needs to be replaced.